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for it's intended purpose? Sorry in advance for any typos. I'm really bad for that. I can proof 5 times and still miss it. I'll tweak as needed when I read this again.
Many years ago professionals requested Canon for the BBF system which made a big difference. When mirrorless arrived I followed the traditional set up and split Metering and AF between the shutter and AF-ON buttons. Eye Detect is simply amazing but it is still a computer trying to figure out what we want. I wondered how could I gain control over it?
Over a year ago I started to think outside the box. I decided that AF is so good on the mirrorless bodies I went back to the factory settings and left both Metering and AF on the shutter button. This free up the AF-ON. The caveat is you have to keep the shutter half pressed. I shot like that for 5 years with my 7D and only assigned the AF-ON for AF with my 7D2 so the transition to go back was not as difficult. Besides the ML bodies have a great little feature - AF Preview or Initial AF for the R5 and 6. When in Eye Detect and you raise the shutter past ½ way the AF preview square kicks in and the system continues to AF. You will notice that when you wake the camera up the AF Preview starts to look for an eye before you press any buttons.
I've been shooting this way for over a year now and have assigned the AF-ON, the * button and AF point selection buttons for different AF modes to, for a better word override Eye Detect when it is struggling. For the R7 I use the DOF because you can't map the magnifier for AF. I use this method continually as it gives me total control.
Just some background. I purchased this similar video tutorial which has some good techniques. One method was to create two files in Lightroom, one for subject NR, the other for background, send both PS and layer them. Since the advanced masking in LrC 11 that method is not as necessary.
I'm not starting this thread to promote Adobe or purchase Steve Perry's tutorials. Just some background on who he is.
I was searching for something else last night and came across this. I haven't seen too many videos that explain this. I attempt to but a picture is a thousand words.
www.youtube.com
The only difference is when Steve uses the BBF he places the single point on the eye of the subject. I don't do that because it is the systems job to find the eye. I paid a lot of money for that feature so I just place it anywhere on my subject, release the BBF and the eye snaps in. I also don't move the AF around anymore. I've not activated the joystick nor do I use the LCD. Too slow. I press a BBF, physically move the camera to land the AF on my subject and release the BFF. I even use Zone AF for this purchase. As long as your subject is in the plane of focus it will find the eye.
What I like about my method is I don't have to lift my thumb off the AF-ON and press the * to override. I just keep the shutter half pressed and use a BBF as needed.
Many years ago professionals requested Canon for the BBF system which made a big difference. When mirrorless arrived I followed the traditional set up and split Metering and AF between the shutter and AF-ON buttons. Eye Detect is simply amazing but it is still a computer trying to figure out what we want. I wondered how could I gain control over it?
Over a year ago I started to think outside the box. I decided that AF is so good on the mirrorless bodies I went back to the factory settings and left both Metering and AF on the shutter button. This free up the AF-ON. The caveat is you have to keep the shutter half pressed. I shot like that for 5 years with my 7D and only assigned the AF-ON for AF with my 7D2 so the transition to go back was not as difficult. Besides the ML bodies have a great little feature - AF Preview or Initial AF for the R5 and 6. When in Eye Detect and you raise the shutter past ½ way the AF preview square kicks in and the system continues to AF. You will notice that when you wake the camera up the AF Preview starts to look for an eye before you press any buttons.
I've been shooting this way for over a year now and have assigned the AF-ON, the * button and AF point selection buttons for different AF modes to, for a better word override Eye Detect when it is struggling. For the R7 I use the DOF because you can't map the magnifier for AF. I use this method continually as it gives me total control.
Just some background. I purchased this similar video tutorial which has some good techniques. One method was to create two files in Lightroom, one for subject NR, the other for background, send both PS and layer them. Since the advanced masking in LrC 11 that method is not as necessary.
I'm not starting this thread to promote Adobe or purchase Steve Perry's tutorials. Just some background on who he is.
I was searching for something else last night and came across this. I haven't seen too many videos that explain this. I attempt to but a picture is a thousand words.
- YouTube
Enjoy the videos and music you love, upload original content, and share it all with friends, family, and the world on YouTube.

The only difference is when Steve uses the BBF he places the single point on the eye of the subject. I don't do that because it is the systems job to find the eye. I paid a lot of money for that feature so I just place it anywhere on my subject, release the BBF and the eye snaps in. I also don't move the AF around anymore. I've not activated the joystick nor do I use the LCD. Too slow. I press a BBF, physically move the camera to land the AF on my subject and release the BFF. I even use Zone AF for this purchase. As long as your subject is in the plane of focus it will find the eye.
What I like about my method is I don't have to lift my thumb off the AF-ON and press the * to override. I just keep the shutter half pressed and use a BBF as needed.
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