Let's talk about eclipse photography

[JCBigler]

The next full solar eclipse (in the US) is coming up on April 8th.

The family and I drove up to Missouri to experience totality and it was one of the most amazing events I've ever experienced. But I didn't get any good photos as I didn't really know what I was doing. This will be the last one to cover the continental US for 20 years or so. So I want to make sure to get some good photos this time.

I've got a Canon EOS R6 mkII and an EOS RP. (Also have a Black Magic PCC4K but I'll be using that for video of the event rather than the actual eclipse).

Lenses that I have are: RF 70-200 f/4, RF 24-70 f/2.8, RF 24-105 f/4, RF 35mm f/1.8, RF 50mm f/1.8, and the RF16mm f/2.8.

Not a lot of reach there. I'm going to have to either rent a longer telephoto or buy something.

Will the RF100-400 f/5.6-8 provide enough zoom for a good eclipse aroura shots? I assume that the slower aperture won't be such an issue for this type of photography, correct? Should I also get a 1.4x or 2x teleconverter to use with this lens? Or Should I try to rent the RF 100-500 f/4.5-7.1?

I want to get a good totality picture with the aurora, probably with the R6 mkII and the longer zoom lens. And then I want to get a good wider landscape with sequential photos for compositing afterwards with a neat foreground which I thought I would use my RP for. I figure the RP would lend itself to cropping a bit more since it has a few more megapixels than the R6 mkII. Thought maybe I would use the RF70-200 on the RP with the 1.6 crop.

And then there's the issue of powering the cameras for extended periods of time. I've got the battery grip for the R6 mkII. I also have AC adapters, but I would need to find a long lasting battery to plug them into. I have a 95Wh 6600mAh V-Mount battery but I was planning to use that for my BM PCC4K, and an Anker 26000 87Wh power bank battery.

Thoughts?

 

[GaryM]

I took photos in 2017 from Salem, Oregon. We were right in the path of totality. Well worth the once or twice in a lifetime experience. Make sure you are as close to the path of totality as possible as it makes a substantial difference in your results.

All I can tell you is what I did as I am no expert when is comes to celestial photography. I will attach one composition photo that gives you an idea of all the pics I took and how they turned out. My results were better than I anticipated, but I studied and prepped months in advance. Ring of fire too.

Equipment used: 7D2, Ef100-400 ver ii, 1.4iii teleconverter, tripod, cable release, solar paper fitted into a UV lens filter as all the load required filters were sold out months ahead of time. I used a 5D3 with the 24-70 F4 for video on another tripod. This equipment ended up being pretty close to perfect, but I ws extended all the way out and still had to crop a tad.

Settings used: Mostly F9, live screen only, Shutter speeds and ISO's ended up around SS50-160 and ISO's were around 400. But the R6, R7 are such better cameras I think you not need worry about that too much. All done in MF as you only have to set it up once and not move it at all.

Batteries were not an issue for me as the camera doesn't use much as it is just intermittent images and the video I just did a minute before totality to a minute after. It worked out really well as it shows daylight to darkness back to daylight and records the oohs and aahss of the crowd and the fireworks that end off getting blasted all over by the neighbors.

With the R62 I would think you would want the 100-500+1.4x or better yet the 200-800 (I think it would be perfect for a solar eclipse) and no tele. The 95mm solar filter might cost a ton, if they even make one, or better yet make your own like I did. R7 would work well too. I even think an R7 with the RF100-400+1.4x would work too, But the F11-F14 might be tough to overcome. Not sure on that.

Anyway I hope you find some of this information useful and just remember this is what I did. It may not work for others and their equipment.
The only advice I can give you is that you can never overprepare for a shoot like this!

Good Luck, Gary

 

[JCBigler]

Those are both very cool photos. I love the ring of the stages around the totality.

I definitely want to try to get one of totality with some of the solar flares like your first shot.

 

[miuzi]

I'm also planning to try photographing the eclipse, and already own the 100-400mm. I've used it a bunch of times for photos of the moon with my R8, and it's decent, but I'm currently looking at ways to extend my reach for the eclipse so that I don't have to crop as much. I don't have the budget for a longer lens, so I'm thinking probably a teleconverter to pair with the 100-400 I already have.

 

[tpatana]

2017 I had good spot in Oregon. Sigma 150-600mm with home-made filter.

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This time I'm just coming back from another trip so I can't make this one. Please post pics you get from there.

 

[GaryM]

2017 I had good spot in Oregon. Sigma 150-600mm with home-made filter.

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This time I'm just coming back from another trip so I can't make this one. Please post pics you get from there.

Mine were similar. Nice job. So any similar type set up should work for those interested in this years eclipse.

 

[GaryM]

Those are both very cool photos. I love the ring of the stages around the totality.

I definitely want to try to get one of totality with some of the solar flares like your first shot.

There is no doubt with all the thought you are putting into it you will!

 

[Jake Shoots Birds]

Thanks for the reminder. I shot the last one with stacked ND's (10+6 stop) but have been meaning to get a solar filter for the UV and IR blocking as well. Want to get one before they suddenly run out everywhere.

 

[JCBigler]

What are everyone's thoughts regarding an R7 for eclipse pics? I've got enough that I could get an R7 and an RF 100-400 f/5.6-8 lens. Or I could get the RF 100-500 f/4.5-7.1 lens.

Since I sold my 60D last year, I don't have a crop sensor camera. And I didn't have any good lenses for it anyway. But the higher pixel count and the crop factor of the R7 seems like it would lend itself well to eclipse photography. An R6 mkII and an R7 seems like they would be a good combo.

 

[JCBigler]

Someone help me. I’ve gone deep down the rabbit hole of star trackers. I’ve got some wicked GAS going on now and I don’t think my wife is going to be happy.

 

[Woodbadger]

Someone help me. I’ve gone deep down the rabbit hole of star trackers. I’ve got some wicked GAS going on now and I don’t think my wife is going to be happy.

There are some really good comparison videos on the “U-toobs”. A couple of those that I follow are Alyn Wallace and The Light Explorer. I havent decided yet but in comparing the supposed “easy entry-level” offerings from Move Shoot Move )MSM, Nomad) I am moving towards the more complete solutions from Sky Watcher and IOptron. By time I add in the bits and bobs to flesh out the MSM the price is about the same. The weight savings don’t mean much to me because I am unlikely to want to haul kit any great distances.

 

[JCBigler]

Thoughts on the Benro Polaris Astro?

Seems like on paper it should be a great product, but sounds like the app control is somewhat buggy.

 

[jcass]

I'm nervous about removing the ND filter. When I first read that in an article, I thought it was a mistake, but seen it enough times to know its a thing. Has anyone done this and what is your trust level in the safety of the camera sensor?

I plan on using my R5 with RF 100-500 without the 1.4ex. I have a 18 stop solar filter.

 

[tpatana]

I removed it during the eclipse, same time as I removed my safety glasses

 

[jcass]

I removed it during the eclipse, same time as I removed my safety glasses

How do you know when that time is right?

 

[tpatana]

How do you know when that time is right?

Tough to remember how exactly but it got dark and stuff.

 

[JCBigler]

You can remove the solar filter during totality. The sun itself will be totally obscured by the moon during totality and is safe for viewing by the naked eye and wont damage your camera sensor. But you need to put it back on once totality ends and the sun starts being visible again.

There are various apps out there have audible count down reminders about when it is safe to view without solar glasses/filters.

Also, remember that you need to have the solar filter at the front of the lens, before the glass. Using a solar filter in front of the camera sensor can still damage the sensor as the glass in the lens will magnify the light coming in. You want to filter the sun before it hits the first set of lenses, not after.

Solar glasses and filters need to conform to the the ISO 12312-2 standard. Using an ND-whatever, or stacked ND filters, or welding glasses may not provide adequate protection. If your willing to trash an expensive camera for it. That's on you. But don't take chances with your eyes. Solar glasses are cheap and plentiful. Just use them and be safe.

About the ISO 12312-2 Standard for Solar Viewers

eclipse.aas.org