Best way to create B&W images

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MikeZ

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  1. Yes
I've often wondered if there is a preferred or best way to create a B&W image - in-camera versus post processing. Admittedly, I've only tried PP conversions which leaves me with both a color and B&W image which is great. Clearly color conversion is dependent upon the algorithm used and should vary accordingly, but does in-camera B&W provide any advantage to the image itself?
 
I still use a method I developed and outlined in 2008 to make the conversion in Lightroom.

With the introduction of masking in LR, I developed and outlined a slightly different approach

My baseline thought has been to retain as much control over colors as possible, like using filters on the lens. There are also other related articles.
 
Thanks for the links, Cemal, and the good advice.
 
I really like NIK Silver Efex Pro, which is part of the NIK suite. All of the NIK components, especially Color Efex, are also great, and the entire suite is definitely worth having. Silver Efex provides over 50 templates for various general effects, such as high and low key, high and low contrast, fine art, sepia, etc. Once a template has been selected, there are numerous adjustments(brightness, contrast, structure, color filter, film types, toning, vignettes, borders, etc. It can do local adjustments with its Control Point process. I've used it several thousand times, and wouldn't want to be without it. Highly recommended.
 
I use a black & white adjustment layer in Photoshop. It allows wide variability of the luminance of all component colors.
 
Here's my secret formula...

I use whatever the standard B&W conversion is in LRC, which converts the Color Mixer panel to the B&W panel which then emulates colored B&W lens filters. Once I get all the tones in the right place I use the Color Grading panel to add 12 units of global saturation with a 235-blue hue. This is my equivalent of the cold-tone B&W paper I printed on last century. That gives it more of a fine-art tone, in my opinion.

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So, what I'm getting from this is that no one sees a discernible difference between in-camera B&W versus PP B&W, and that PP conversion is preferable since it saves the original color image and provides greater editing control. Is the right?
 
I'd say there could be a discernable difference. In-camera may be lacking in contrast or otherwise in need of "assistance" in post-processing. I would agree with your statement that PP conversion is preferable.
 
So, what I'm getting from this is that no one sees a discernible difference between in-camera B&W versus PP B&W, and that PP conversion is preferable since it saves the original color image and provides greater editing control. Is the right?
I’m still waiting for someone to explain why in-camera would be better, apart from expediency.
 
So, what I'm getting from this is that no one sees a discernible difference between in-camera B&W versus PP B&W, and that PP conversion is preferable since it saves the original color image and provides greater editing control. Is the right?
Honestly, I've never used in-camera anything to produce image files. I shoot 100% raw, so all my edits are done in post. Can Canon cameras produce B&W raw files, or is the conversion only done when they write to jpg files, the way that other picture styles work?
 
Of course, if you have the money, there's always this.

If I had the money, I probably would.

But for now, I'm happy with LRC for conversions.
 
So, what I'm getting from this is that no one sees a discernible difference between in-camera B&W versus PP B&W,
No, you aren't getting that from me. PP B&W is far preferable to in-camera, because you can use color sliders to adjust the various gray tones.
 
I use LrC and each adventure is from scratch. I could not repeat the same edit twice. It's like getting a box of chocolates. These are a little dated but the linear and radial masks are the same. I've counted well over 75 edits some of my conversions.

Sorry as they kinda overlap.




 
I've tried and loved a variety of methods, from the very old school Ps hue and saturation adjustments with blend modes, to Nik Silver Efex (my go to for years). I still like Silver Efex (though I'm still using the OLD free version) if I want to do more than a straight conversion (add texture, filtering, etc.), but someone here turned me on to the TK Magic Mixer last year. I'd been using their main panels since I discovered luminosity adjustments years ago (panel 4), and this gives you a combination of the old school hue/saturation and the generic Ps B&W adjustments, but with an ease of use (and awesome randomize function) that the others don't have.

Best $10 I've spent in ages.
 
So, what I'm getting from this is that no one sees a discernible difference between in-camera B&W versus PP B&W, and that PP conversion is preferable since it saves the original color image and provides greater editing control. Is the right?
I think it very much depends on the subject, lighting and how you want the final image to look.
There are times when I am perfectly happy with in-camera B&W and times that PP conversion provides the specific improvements I am looking for over and above in-camera shots.
 
So, what I'm getting from this is that no one sees a discernible difference between in-camera B&W versus PP B&W, and that PP conversion is preferable since it saves the original color image and provides greater editing control. Is the right?
The only time I noticed a diffence between in camera B&W and pp was when I used actual red, yellow and green filers on the end of the lens. They were leftovers from my Ansel Adams days and IMO far better looking than adding them in post. That was many years ago when I just got into digital. Over time I got tired of changing them, shot in Color and converted to B&W in post.
 
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I'd love to shoot with that Leica for a long weekend and see what it can do, apart from decimating my bank balance .......
My first thought was that it would be perfect for grungy rock concert photography.
 
One thing that changed for me with modern apps. While It would be nice to have I don't really need fast lenses anymore. NR and Lens Blur for Bokeh takes care of it. Getting it down a stop or two or having real Bokeh with fast lenses would always be better but the I can get pretty close.

I have hundreds of free presets and this set is called B&W Grunge. It tool a few seconds in LrC. Collin James in 2014. the Leica would be awesome to have I can get any look I want for free or paid for presets if I needed it.

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:p That's a fantastic idea but my wife has vowed to hunt you down ..................:p:p
OUCH!! Time for me to lay low.
 
My wife supports my hobby but does not care one bit about it. I still can't figure out how she knows I got a new body. Even if she does not see the Rx Mark XX on it how does she immediately know? Maybe I look guilty or I'm carrying around like a new born baby. It's been a 20 year mystery.
 
My wife supports my hobby but does not care one bit about it. I still can't figure out how she knows I got a new body. Even if she does not see the Rx Mark XX on it how does she immediately know? Maybe I look guilty or I'm carrying around like a new born baby. It's been a 20 year mystery.
They hear, see and know everything ........... :ROFLMAO:.
 
Here are some examples from NIK Silver Efex Pro.
 

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