Canon R6 II Issue with Canon R6 Mark II: Lens Behavior After Turning Off

[petar]

Hi everyone,

I’m experiencing an issue with my Canon R6 Mark II. After I turn off the camera, the lenses (RF 24-70mm f/2.8 and RF 100mm f/2.8) continue making sounds and adjustments for a short period, even though the camera is switched off. The LED light on the camera also occasionally flickers after turning it off.

This used to happen just once with a quick flicker, and then everything would be quiet, but now it keeps happening more frequently.

I’ve already checked the latest firmware updates and power settings, and I’ve tried turning the camera on and off multiple times, but the issue persists.
As a precaution, I’ve started removing the battery after use to avoid potential overheating (though I haven’t experienced any overheating issues yet).

Has anyone experienced something similar or knows if this is normal behavior? Could there be an issue with the camera or lenses?

Thanks in advance for your help!

 

[Bryan Conner]

How long is a "short period?

From what I have gathered, EOS R system cameras can take up to 10 seconds to completely shut down. In the case of the R6 Mark II, as with other similar models, it has to "park" the IBIS as well as the lens IS. The camera has to park the floating lens elements and the sensor itself (it uses magnets to enable it to "float"). This parking procedure can be noisy and may take a few seconds, and it is necessary to secure the mechanisms for safe transport. The blinking led light could be the image buffer clearing. These cameras also record lens correction data etc., and do a final "handshake" with RF lenses before shutting down. The camera also will clean the sensor upon shutdown. All of these activities can create noises as well as make the led to blink. From what I understand, if all of this takes less than 10 seconds, then it is normal. If it happens past around 10 seconds after switching the power off, there could be a problem. I have also read that some camera/lens combinations take longer than others, which makes sense.

 

[petar]

@Bryan Conner
Thank you for taking the time to help me. I’ll try to mention from the start that the issue is resolved for now, and I hope it stays that way moving forward.

To explain in more detail what happened, I’m not sure why I decided to check the battery on the charger, even though the camera indicated it was half full. On the other hand, I didn’t expect it to be more empty or more full. In the end, I put it on the charger, and it showed that it was empty, so I let it charge to 100% (not 75%) and then put it back into the camera. Fortunately, the issue hasn’t occurred again, but at the same time, I have a lot of unanswered questions:

• If it was empty, why did the camera show that it was half full?
• If it was empty, why did the camera keep working even when it was turned off?
• If it was empty, why did the camera work without any issues with the battery?

Right now, I’m not sure what conclusion to draw from these questions, but the most important thing is that the problem is gone! Again, thank you for taking the time to message me. I wish you a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.

 

[Bryan Conner]

First, what battery and charger are you using? Are they both the original Canon batteries that came with your camera or another brand? I own more 3rd party LP-E6 batteries than I do Canon batteries, so I am a person who trusts high quality 3rd party batteries and chargers. But, I also know that our modern Canon cameras and their batteries have small chips in them that do among other things, make sure the battery charges safely and also to report battery condition to the camera. So, your questions could possibly be answered with "it is a battery problem", or "it is a charger problem" or a combination of both. Maybe the informating the battery is reporting to the camera is not correct/accurate. Maybe the information communicated between the charger and the battery while charging is not accurate/correct.

Do you have only one battery? If yes, then I would buy a second one and see if the problem occurs with the second battery. A process of elimination is often the only way to find where the culprit is in a situation like this. If it happens with two batteries, then I would use a different charger. If it happens with different batteries and chargers, then that would point to the camera.

I have never experienced your problems in 25 years of shooting Canon DSLRs and mirrorless cameras. So, I am only speculating based on my limited knowledge. Maybe someone else will know more than me or have a better idea.

I would make sure the contacts are clean on the battery, the charger, as well as the camera. Just make sure there isn't a small piece of lint etc anywhere. Other than that, I would cross my fingers, or press my thumbs as we do here in Germany, and hope it didn't happen again.

Hopefully it never happens again and you can simply forget it.

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you as well.

 

[petar]

@Bryan Conner
Thank you once again for taking the time to write to me. I will try to respond as thoroughly and well as I can.

I have the original battery and the original charger that come in the box with the Canon R6 Mark II. I haven’t used any other charger or battery so far – I’ve been using these from the very beginning, which is about 1.5 years. This means that I still have the remaining warranty for the camera, which is 2 years. I haven’t checked the warranty for the battery, but I assume it’s shorter for the battery.

At the moment, I don’t have any other battery or charger. Since it’s the holidays and I don’t have anywhere to turn to, and I’ll need the camera on Monday and the following days, I’ll have to do something preventive myself. As you mentioned, I’ll clean the contacts on the charger and battery, but I don’t know how I can clean the contacts inside the camera because they are deep inside.

By the way, I should add that this behavior lasted a long time after turning off the camera, not just a few seconds. I left it for half an hour to see if the camera would fix the problem by itself... After that, I thought half an hour is long enough to hope the camera will do something on its own, so I took the battery out of the camera, and then I put it on the charger to charge fully, when I saw it was empty, even though the camera showed a signal that it was half full, which was exactly what I expected.

On the other hand, I am already looking for a new battery, but the problem is that it’s hard to find an original Canon one. Here in Slovenia, there is Newell, and I haven’t come across these batteries for other electronic devices, although I already have a [Newell RGB-W LED panel Rangha]. I’ve just never had experience with their batteries, and I don’t know if they’re good enough, or should I look for an original Canon battery?

In the meantime, I turned the camera on and off a few times, and the problem didn’t occur again. I even left it by my side the whole night, and while I was sleeping, I checked from time to time to see if anything would change with it. There was no change, and now it’s working as it should... although I’m not sure exactly what happened to it!?

Thank you once again for being with me and trying to help me!

 

[Bryan Conner]

Hi Petar,

I guess that inside the battery compartment of the camera, I would maybe use a lens blower and just make sure there isn't any larger dust particles in there somehow. I doubt there is. I definitely would not try to really clean them, that would be too risky. For the battery contacts and the charger contacts, I would simply use a clean, dry cloth (maybe microfiber) and clean them. But, I would think that if they needed cleaning you would be able to see that they were dirty. But, cleaning them is free and you have nothing to lose. Just don't use too much force especially on the charger contacts.

You can always charge the battery in the camera to eliminate the charger as a variable.

 

[Bryan Conner]

For people in the EU, or in Germany specifically, I can recommend Patona and Blumax batteries as a good third party battery. I have used them for years and have not had any problems. When I purchased my R6MkII in October of this year, I got a Canon LP-E6P along with the LP-E6NH. Using a LP-E6 charger which also functions as a powerbank, I discharged all of my batteries and recorded the discharge data using a usb multimeter. I know the multimeter isn't the most accurate, but I tested each battery with the exact same test protocol, so the results were comparable.

I was concerned with Wh as that is a better indicator of battery power than mAh. Wh is the actual "work" the battery can do. Since I mostly use the batteries as a pair in a battery grip, I averaged the results of each pair. All batteries tested have always been labeled as a pair with their mate and kept together/charged together etc. All batteries were fully charged and reported 100% charge in the R6MkII before testing.

Patona Protect LP-E6NH - 13.27Wh 97.65% of the original Canons
Blumax LP-E6NH - 13..34Wh 98.16% of the original Canons
Canon LP-E6NH/P - 13.59Wh

The Patonas and the Blumax batteries do have an ntc sensor, not all third party batteries have one.

My oldest LP-E6NH batteries are a pair of Patona Protect which I purchased in May of 2021. They have been used a pretty good amount, but I didn't do this same test on them in 2021, so I only have current performance. I suppose they have degraded in the last 4.5 years.
They tested at 10.18Wh in November of 2025. That means 74.91% of the new Canons.
The downside to all of these third party batteries are that they don't play well with the Canon charger supplied with my R6MkII. It will not fully charge them. That is ok because I use a dual charger which will....but the dual charger will not charge the Canon batteries completely to 100%, but only to 99% which is ok. So for the above testing, the Canon batteries were charged in the original Canon charger and the non Canon batteries were charged in a 3rd party charger.

 

[petar]

@Bryan Conner
Thank you again for trying to help me... I totally forgot that I have an air blower and that I can use it to clean the dust inside the camera. I still see the camera like my eyes, I take care of it carefully... just like all the [equipment] around me.

Thanks for the recommendation for Patona, I managed to find it and it costs 40€ [here] in Slovenia, which is much cheaper than the original Canon one (100€).

What surprised me is that it has a 4-year warranty!!! I still can't believe it, because if I buy a 3,000€ laptop, I only get 6 months warranty on its battery (just to note that the laptop allows software-controlled charging and discharging within the range of 25%-85%, instead of up to 100%, to extend the battery lifespan). Honestly, it doesn't bother me at all if the original Canon battery charges a bit less to extend its lifespan and prevent damage to the cells in the battery... so that doesn’t bother me.

All I'm interested in is whether it’s good enough to use with our cameras and the original charger, or if it's better to buy a Patona charger?

 

[Bryan Conner]

@Bryan Conner
Thank you again for trying to help me... I totally forgot that I have an air blower and that I can use it to clean the dust inside the camera. I still see the camera like my eyes, I take care of it carefully... just like all the [equipment] around me.

Thanks for the recommendation for Patona, I managed to find it and it costs 40€ [here] in Slovenia, which is much cheaper than the original Canon one (100€).

What surprised me is that it has a 4-year warranty!!! I still can't believe it, because if I buy a 3,000€ laptop, I only get 6 months warranty on its battery (just to note that the laptop allows software-controlled charging and discharging within the range of 25%-85%, instead of up to 100%, to extend the battery lifespan). Honestly, it doesn't bother me at all if the original Canon battery charges a bit less to extend its lifespan and prevent damage to the cells in the battery... so that doesn’t bother me.

All I'm interested in is whether it’s good enough to use with our cameras and the original charger, or if it's better to buy a Patona charger?

Happy to help, Petar. The picture on the site you linked to is the correct battery, but the battery pictured is an older version. The pair of batteries I bought from Amazon here in Germany a few months ago are 2600 mAh. I would contact the seller and ask the battery they will ship is 2400 mAh, or 2600mAh. It could be that they just are using an old picture.

The 2400 mAh version is also very good, just not their latest offering. I doubt you would ever notice the difference in usage between the two.

And again, like I said in my info above, mAh is not the most important spec to look at, it is the Wh, which is how much work the battery can do when fully charged as opposed to the capacity (mAh).

Now, as far as the charger goes, I have a Patona that needs charging. I will put in my Canon charger and see if it works ok and charges to 100%. I will report back in a few hours.

 

[petar]

@Bryan Conner Thank you once again for pointing out these details in the listings, so I continued looking in that direction as well. What I noticed is that even in the listings on Amazon.de (https://www.amazon.de/s?k=patona+lp-e6nh+2600mah&ref=nb_sb_noss_2), they are not 2600 mAh, but rather 2250 mAh, according to the user photos in the reviews section of the orders.

 

[Bryan Conner]

Patona Protect Amazon Germany is the link to Amazon in Germany for the 2600mAh version that I have. There is a picture below of this battery. I also have a pair of Patona Platinum batteries which also worked really well for a long time. They are almost 5 years old now and have lost a bit of their power, but they still work without a problem. They do not have the ntc sensor in them, but if that isn't a must for you, then the Platinum will work perfectly.

Sometimes Patona will have sales in their online shop that are the same as Amazon. They will ship to Slovenia, but it is expensive in my opinion, over 18€.

I just charged the battery you see below with the Canon LC-E6E charger that came with my R6 Mark II without a problem. It reported as being charged to 100% in my camera, but it took about 3.5 hours to charge completely, which is longer than normal. So, if you aren't in a hurry, you don't need another charger.

• Join to view EXIF data.

 

[JanW]

Hi everyone,

I’m experiencing an issue with my Canon R6 Mark II. After I turn off the camera, the lenses (RF 24-70mm f/2.8 and RF 100mm f/2.8) continue making sounds and adjustments for a short period, even though the camera is switched off. The LED light on the camera also occasionally flickers after turning it off.

This used to happen just once with a quick flicker, and then everything would be quiet, but now it keeps happening more frequently.

I’ve already checked the latest firmware updates and power settings, and I’ve tried turning the camera on and off multiple times, but the issue persists.
As a precaution, I’ve started removing the battery after use to avoid potential overheating (though I haven’t experienced any overheating issues yet).

Has anyone experienced something similar or knows if this is normal behavior? Could there be an issue with the camera or lenses?

Thanks in advance for your help!

Did you check the lens contacts?
On my R50 the lens moves briefly if I mount it on the camera when the camera is switched off.
Maybe some dirt on the contacts could cause such behaviour?
I don’t see the LED light up however when changing lenses.

Jan

 

[petar]

@Bryan Conner What I noticed from the link you shared is that users are posting batteries of 2250mAh instead of 2600mAh... so I need to ask again, did you receive a 2600mAh battery from the same store?

@JanW The lens is new, almost 2-3 months old... the contacts on the camera and lens are clean.
[Here] I have explained in more details that the issue is solved.

 

[Bryan Conner]

@Bryan Conner What I noticed from the link you shared is that users are posting batteries of 2250mAh instead of 2600mAh... so I need to ask again, did you receive a 2600mAh battery from the same store?

@JanW The lens is new, almost 2-3 months old... the contacts on the camera and lens are clean.
[Here] I have explained in more details that the issue is solved.

Hi Petar,

Yes, the last 6 Patona batteries I bought were all 2600mAh, and all purchased this year (2025). My oldest set of Patona Protect batteries are 2250 mAh, but I bought them in 2021. So maybe your supplier has old stock. The first pair of 2600mAh Patona Protects I bought were purchased in April, 2025. Patona has a newer version on their website now that is listed as being compatible with LP-E6P, which is not needed for an R6 Mark II

https://www.amazon.de/-/en/dp/B08Q7NTSCS?th=1 is the link to Amazon Germany of the exact batteries I purchased.

https://patona.de/en/patona-protect-battery-f.-canon-lp-e6p-eos-r5-mark-ii-8k-ready-6a-6695?c=3131 is the link to the newest version from Patona, which is up to the LP-E6P standard for the R6 Mark III and the R5 Mark II. This battery is also available on Amazon Germany here: Patona LP-E6P This is the battery that I would purchase if possible. The reason is that if you ever upgrade to an R5 mark II or R6 mark III, it will be able to handle the higher demands of those cameras. It is definitely more future proof than the LP-E6NH that we need for the R6 Mark II.

 

[petar]

@Bryan Conner That’s why it seemed a bit strange to me, because you write that it’s 2600mAh, while in the photos from people who bought batteries from there, they show that they received ones with 2250mAh. This looked a bit odd to me. Still, I’m not saying that I wouldn’t consider the 2250mAh one as well, but somehow the reviews for the product didn’t really suit me. However, since you claim that they are 2600mAh, I will take this store into consideration. Once again, thank you very much for the clarification.


Otherwise, since I already have the Canon R6 Mark II, I don’t consider the Mark III to be an upgrade, but rather the R5 Mark II. The fact that the sensor on the Mark III is more oriented toward video production doesn’t seem like a major upgrade to me, whereas the R5 models are already a different category that’s worth looking at as an upgrade. Those who don’t have the R6 can freely go for the Mark III. Of course, I will buy the batteries separately; I won’t swap them between each other if I’m in a situation where I’m using both the R6 and R5 models.