Tad contraversial M Mode

[Only RF]

I have been into photography since the 80’s. I did not experiment much because film was expensive. In 2005 I got my first DSLR so I decided to take some lessons. I took a basic course just to get out and DSLR’s were new. It also was a precursor to more advanced classes.

I understood the exposure triangle but there were some participants that never taken their cameras out of P mode. Complete automation and nothing to worry about. They had a tough time wrapping their heads around the triangle. Sometimes you need to take a break and revisit things as the brain digests.

Before Auto ISO in M mode not you not only did you have to set up SS, Aperture and ISO you also had to meter. To me Av and Tv were much easier because because you had less to worry about. M was pain to work with, for me anyway.

My contribution to this debate is I just don’t agree with the authors comment about those who use M mode don’t understand the other modes. If one understands the exposure triangle I can’t see how the other modes would be more difficult to understand. I used and preferred Av for almost 15 year. During that period the only time I used M mode was when I put the flash on. M definitely in the studio. That was a given.

 

[PKM-UK]

Everyone will have their own set-up preferences - and if they're happy with the usability and end results, then it's the right one for them. Canon provides us with practically infinite control and settings permutations for a reason - if there one certainty here, it's that one size doesn't fit all.

Our standard set-up at present (given the inherent differences between the R5 and R7 and subject to 'as required' live tweaking) is:

Manual Mode (General walk-around for shooting 'stuff’): Auto ISO (alt. user defined), Expand AF area: Around, Servo AF (alt. One-Shot AF), Full Metering, Low-speed shooting, EFCS. (AF-ON Enables: 'L'+Tracking, Animal detect, Eye-AF Enabled, Servo AF).

C1 (Animals): Manual Mode, Auto ISO (100-6400), 'L'+Tracking (Animals, Eye-AF Enabled, Case 2, Switching subjects 0), Servo AF, Partial Metering, High-speed shooting (occasionally H+), Mechanical Shutter. (AF-ON Enables: Expand AF area: Around, One-Shot AF with Manual Focus + Zoom).

C2 (People): Manual Mode, Auto ISO (100-6400), 'L'+Tracking (Humans, Eye-AF Enabled, Case 1, Switching subjects 1), Servo (alt. One-Shot AF), Partial Metering (alt. Full), Low-speed shooting, EFCS.

C3 (Long Exposures): Tv Mode, ISO 100 (alt. User defined), Expanded Point, One-Shot AF, Full Metering (alt. Partial), Self-timer, EFCS.

(R5 only - [M-Fn]: 'Switch to Custom Mode' so I can cycle between Current Mode-C1-C2-C3. [SET]: 'Dial Function' (EC, Drive, ISO, Metering), [AF-ON]: 'Centre F. Point', Lens/ Ad Ring: 'EC').

All modes: Continuous Focus Disabled, 'Lens drive when AF impossible' set to 'ON’, changes to Custom Modes are saved so they ‘stick’ if the camera sleeps/ is turned off-on. Rear screen parked/ reversed when shooting (unless being used at odd angles). Auto Review Off, EVF Smooth.

I'm not sure where this takes you, but there you go...

Phil

 

[Only RF]

As stated with todays sensors and advanced NR software I rarely worry about ISO. I’d rather get a high ISO in focus shot than a low ISO blurred shot. I pay attention to the ISO but if I have to go high then I do. The shot is always the priority.

 

[Only RF]

Everyone will have their own set-up preferences - and if they're happy with the usability and end results, then it's the right one for them. Canon provides us with practically infinite control and settings permutations for a reason - if there one certainty here, it's that one size doesn't fit all.

Our standard set-up at present (given the inherent differences between the R5 and R7 and subject to 'as required' live tweaking) is:

Manual Mode (General walk-around for shooting 'stuff’): Auto ISO (alt. user defined), Expand AF area: Around, Servo AF (alt. One-Shot AF), Full Metering, Low-speed shooting, EFCS. (AF-ON Enables: 'L'+Tracking, Animal detect, Eye-AF Enabled, Servo AF).

C1 (Animals): Manual Mode, Auto ISO (100-6400), 'L'+Tracking (Animals, Eye-AF Enabled, Case 2, Switching subjects 0), Servo AF, Partial Metering, High-speed shooting (occasionally H+), Mechanical Shutter. (AF-ON Enables: Expand AF area: Around, One-Shot AF with Manual Focus + Zoom).

C2 (People): Manual Mode, Auto ISO (100-6400), 'L'+Tracking (Humans, Eye-AF Enabled, Case 1, Switching subjects 1), Servo (alt. One-Shot AF), Partial Metering (alt. Full), Low-speed shooting, EFCS.

C3 (Long Exposures): Tv Mode, ISO 100 (alt. User defined), Expanded Point, One-Shot AF, Full Metering (alt. Partial), Self-timer, EFCS.

(R5 only - [M-Fn]: 'Switch to Custom Mode' so I can cycle between Current Mode-C1-C2-C3. [SET]: 'Dial Function' (EC, Drive, ISO, Metering), [AF-ON]: 'Centre F. Point', Lens/ Ad Ring: 'EC').

All modes: Continuous Focus Disabled, 'Lens drive when AF impossible' set to 'ON’, changes to Custom Modes are saved so they ‘stick’ if the camera sleeps/ is turned off-on. Rear screen parked/ reversed when shooting (unless being used at odd angles). Auto Review Off, EVF Smooth.

I'm not sure where this takes you, but there you go...

Phil

There aren’t enough C1-3 modes with today’s bodies. Far more programming options than even 5 years ago. I’d like to see a mapping option on the back of the body that you could quickly toggle through. Maybe a dozen modes? While handy I find the C1-3 options on the dial archaic.

 

[PKM-UK]

There aren’t enough C1-3 modes with today’s bodies. Far more programming options than even 5 years ago. I’d like to see a mapping option on the back of the body that you could quickly toggle through. Maybe a dozen modes? While handy I find the C1-3 options on the dial archaic.

Manual + the 3 C options generally suffices for our purposes, though - as indicated - we're forever making adjustments on the fly as we go through a shoot (e.g. indoor/ outdoor exhibits at a zoo) and for this sort of stuff having more than 3 would be very nice. (Though I'd probably get totally lost... ).

If I was a little more organised I'd save a couple of cameras set-up mappings out to SD card and bring in the one I want for any scenario, but I'm not.

Having an in-camera library of saved set-ups could be interesting, but my suspicion is Canon will be introducing zebras for stills before we see that...

Phil

 

[Only RF]

I'd like to have more modes so I could set up eShutter and EFCS for each of the categories, animals, people and vehicles. That is 6 to start. With too many it could also get convoluted and you'd have to remember them so there is a down side. Those options are easily accessible in the green menus.

 

[Only RF]

I should have said "other" options besides animals, people and vehicles are available for mapping. Eye detect on/off is mapped to Set for the R6II and the Cross Keys on the R7. Air shows. Shutter speed of 1/6400 for jets and with a quick press 1/160 for props. The less I move my eye away from the EVF the happier I am.

 

[chipman]

I consider Fv to be two finger Manual control. Thumb switches to the function I want to change, index finger changes it.
And when I'm lazy the east button on the 4 way sets everything to Auto.

 

[Only RF]

heres the link
https://chrisbrayphotography.com/tips/auto_iso.php

From that link. Generally speaking, you should keep your ISO as low as you can, to prevent ISO noise. What he says is not incorrect but there is more to it. It is always best to keep it down. You should read the responses. Particularly these ones.

High ISO doesn't cause noise
Noise becomes apparent as the result of insufficient exposure

What is the physical cause of increasing noise at high ISO?

Which is the physical cause of the increasing noise at high iso? I know that Iso represents the sensor/film sensitivity to light: at lower iso we need an higher exposure time to get the image of the

photo.stackexchange.com

I have seen other links articles about this but I couldn't find any. Appropriate shutter speeds and correct exposures are key.

 

[PKM-UK]

Well worth a watch… Link.

Phil