Birds Which Telephoto Zoom?

[ACEkin]

I value your opinion as coming from a master! I’m not joking!

I blush! You flatter me, Frank.

 

[ctitanic]

Yes, I was.

Got it. Yes, that would had been a better composition. I don’t know how I missed that point.

 

[ACEkin]

Got it. Yes, that would had been a better composition. I don’t know how I missed that point.

I only have the photograph to look at. You, on the other hand, have the moment you took it, the voices, sounds, the wind, chirps, the excitement of being in the midst of nature. When you look at it, you have all those inputs making you relive that moment. Some famous photographers don't even look at the pictures they take for a few weeks or more to distance themselves from the moment and see only the photograph. With this long-winded reply, I am suggesting that it may be easy to miss a different crop. If and when you try it, you may hear just the bird.

 

[ctitanic]

The best part to me is the branch the bird is perched on, starting with the part excluding the squiggly twigs and ending where the other edge of the branch meets the diagonal corner opposite that. It is just an opinion.

Something like this.

 

[ctitanic]

I only have the photograph to look at. You, on the other hand, have the moment you took it, the voices, sounds, the wind, chirps, the excitement of being in the midst of nature. When you look at it, you have all those inputs making you relive that moment. Some famous photographers don't even look at the pictures they take for a few weeks or more to distance themselves from the moment and see only the photograph. With this long-winded reply, I am suggesting that it may be easy to miss a different crop. If and when you try it, you may hear just the bird.

You are absolutely right!

 

[ACEkin]

Something like this.
View attachment 20087

A little tighter, bring the lower left corner higher and the opposite corner lower. The branch will probably fit diagonally only at one point. The diagonal branch from corner to corner will also add a compositional element by touching the corners.

 

[ctitanic]

A little tighter, bring the lower left corner higher and the opposite corner lower. The branch will probably fit diagonally only at one point. The diagonal branch from corner to corner will also add a compositional element by touching the corners.

I’ll keep it in mind (I’m in my iPad now).

 

[Jake Shoots Birds]

Thanks for the info. Last week I tried EFCS in H and didn't like it. I went back to S shutter and H. 15 is plenty for me. Also I can't stand how loud the shutter so while I'm not a huge fan of e shutter I'll take take that instead.

I totally get it, but I'm tired of images that managed to be sharp as a tack having subjects distorted by the sensor sweep. If I know I have a nearly stationary subject I'll go to silent, but those are also the times I don't need H+. Like I said, it's the promise of a great camera that is just really good for the $$.

 

[David Berry]

I've always hated MFA.

What is MFA?

 

[Only RF]

What is MFA?

Micro Focus Adjustment

 

[David Berry]

Micro Focus Adjustment

Thanks: I have much to learn!
… David

 

[MikeZ]

Like David, I have much to learn. What is H and H+?

 

[Only RF]

Thanks: I have much to learn!
… David

NP. One reason I never liked it was I never trusted my own results. That is why I purchased FoCal. The second was while it was a very good feature Canon never really provided a decent set of instructions. It was all over the place. Some Canon articles said for distance to use 50X the lens and others the distance your normally shoot at or at location. Then the questions of the actual procedure came up and a flood of ideas appeared on the web. Many suggested to print out a ruler or use one and do this at a 45 degree angle. That turned out not to be the recommended method. When adjusting MFA your target should be parallel to the cameras sensor. Lens Align started with a ruler only then added a parallel target to focus on. The ruler was the reference to tell you if the camera was front or back focusing.

Very early on in one article Chuck Westfall suggested some methods and said if you can better go ahead. I thought what? I spend thousands on precision camera gear. Your engineers should be telling me how to do this properly.

Finally Canon came up with a comprehensive set of instructions. Before I found this I was using Focal. Since I shot outdoors with my telephoto lenses and based on articles I tried to use as much natural daylight as I could. I also lit the target with two daylight balanced studio CFL's. When I used to post the part about the CFL's I had a feeling people thought I was off my rocker a bit. Page 5 shows the procedure and step 1 is the light source.

https://support.usa.canon.com/resou...T175504/en_US/AF_MicroAdjustGuide_desktop.pdf

Sorry for my rant. MFA has always been a bit of a pet peeve for me. I probably invested more time into it than I needed to but I like to ask questions and understand why I'm doing something. Either way I will never miss it.

 

[Only RF]

Like David, I have much to learn. What is H and H+?

H = high speed continuous or frame rate. For example in e shutter the R7 with H+ will do 30 fps. With H it will do 15 fps.

 

[Only RF]

NP. One reason I never liked it was I never trusted my own results. That is why I purchased FoCal. The second was while it was a very good feature Canon never really provided a decent set of instructions. It was all over the place. Some Canon articles said for distance to use 50X the lens and others the distance your normally shoot at or at location. Then the questions of the actual procedure came up and a flood of ideas appeared on the web. Many suggested to print out a ruler or use one and do this at a 45 degree angle. That turned out not to be the recommended method. When adjusting MFA your target should be parallel to the cameras sensor. Lens Align started with a ruler only then added a parallel target to focus on. The ruler was the reference to tell you if the camera was front or back focusing.

Very early on in one article Chuck Westfall suggested some methods and said if you can better go ahead. I thought what? I spend thousands on precision camera gear. Your engineers should be telling me how to do this properly.

Finally Canon came up with a comprehensive set of instructions. Before I found this I was using Focal. Since I shot outdoors with my telephoto lenses and based on articles I tried to use as much natural daylight as I could. I also lit the target with two daylight balanced studio CFL's. When I used to post the part about the CFL's I had a feeling people thought I was off my rocker a bit. Page 5 shows the procedure and step 1 is the light source.

https://support.usa.canon.com/resou...T175504/en_US/AF_MicroAdjustGuide_desktop.pdf

Sorry for my rant. MFA has always been a bit of a pet peeve for me. I probably invested more time into it than I needed to but I like to ask questions and understand why I'm doing something. Either way I will never miss it.

Just to add my first camera with MFA was the 50D. Released in 2008 and when my MFA madness started.

 

[MikeZ]

H = high speed continuous or frame rate. For example in e shutter the R7 with H+ will do 30 fps. With H it will do 15 fps.

Thanks!

 

[ctitanic]

Just for the record, MFA only applies to DSLR. Mirrorless cameras (R) do not use or require MFA.