Camera modes

[ctitanic]

I recently participated in a discussion thread that initially focused on a different topic but eventually shifted to an important subject: camera modes.

Today, I came across a video on this very topic, and I absolutely loved it. The ideas shared by the author completely align with my own perspective.

 

[PKM-UK]

I recently participated in a discussion thread that initially focused on a different topic but eventually shifted to an important subject: camera modes.

Today, I came across a video on this very topic, and I absolutely loved it. The ideas shared by the author completely align with my own perspective.

Hi Frank,

Yes, we have all our cameras set up for Manual/ Auto ISO (max limited, with EC readily to hand) - only moving to full Manual (i.e. including manual ISO - max not limited) where a need arises.

(Appreciate other people may have different requirements and/ or preferences - and if their set-up works for them, that's absolutely fine).

P&K

 

[ctitanic]

All roads lead to Rome.

 

[Dean Wilson]

That's why I like Fv Mode.

 

[Dave Williams]

As a result of recent discussions on here I too have been playing with auto-iso and exposure compensation. In the blog he's using a Nikon body and suggests he dials in under exposure, something I have heard many Nikon users state over the years. Canon users seem to go the opposite way and over expose.
What's every one using on here?

He also set maximum ISO at 3200 which in my book is very low as I rely very much on shutter speed to freeze the action rather than blur it as you might in landscape photography.

I must check out FV mode, still haven't a clue what it gives you.

 

[ctitanic]

I over expose by one click or two. If I'm photographing white subjects as plants or birds I then underexpose to get more details in the whites, sacrificing the background which will be dark.

The Max ISO in my R6 is set to 25600 or 12800. Between DXO PureRaw, LrC Denoise and Topaz Denoise I can handle excessive noise in post editing.

I do not use FV Mode. I tested once but I'm not a fan of it. Probably is like back button auto focus. You need to get used to it when you start using it. For those using Auto Mode I guess is an advantage because you can switch from Manual, Manual with Auto ISO or Auto without changing the mode (staying in FV).

 

[Only RF]

That's how I have been running my ship for the last 3 or so years. I've just never set a Max ISO. I use EC as needed - pretty much all of the time.

 

[PKM-UK]

As a result of recent discussions on here I too have been playing with auto-iso and exposure compensation. In the blog he's using a Nikon body and suggests he dials in under exposure, something I have heard many Nikon users state over the years. Canon users seem to go the opposite way and over expose.
What's every one using on here?

He also set maximum ISO at 3200 which in my book is very low as I rely very much on shutter speed to freeze the action rather than blur it as you might in landscape photography.

I must check out FV mode, still haven't a clue what it gives you.

We allow Auto ISO to roam up to 6400 (R5 and R7), which DxO, Adobe or Topaz can generally handle with ease. We tend to err on the side of caution with EC, using between -1/3 and a full stop, only venturing into positives for any backlit/ black bird against white background type scenarios.

(I’ve tried getting into FV Mode a couple of times, but it made my brain hurt. I may try again sometime after a long lie down).

Phil

 

[Only RF]

We allow Auto ISO to roam up to 6400 (R5 and R7), which DxO, Adobe or Topaz can generally handle with ease. We tend to err on the side of caution with EC, using between -1/3 and a full stop, only venturing into positives for any backlit/ black bird against white background type scenarios.

(I’ve tried getting into FV Mode a couple of times, but it made my brain hurt. I may try again sometime after a long lie down).

Phil

I used FV for about six months and didn’t mind it. I found it annoying to access SS and Aperture. You have to move the curser to the desired thingy first. I got all messed up when there was a lot of action and I had to move fast. It does not help that I move slow. It was my stepping stone to M mode.

 

[TwoWheeler]

I exclusively use C1 (general porpoise), C2 (things that move) and C3 (macro) and they’re all FV-based. Using the MF-N button, I can cycle through all three very different setups in a heartbeat.

You have to move the curser to the desired thingy first.

The “curser” is usually me. The cursor is the thing in the EVF.

I use my control ring for aperture, so there’s no need to move the indicator to set that.

 

[David Berry]

Using the MF-N button, I can cycle through all three very different setups in a heartbeat.

So very useful.

MF-N is the only button that can be programmed to cycle C1—>C2—>C3—>C1…

In the Customize Buttons menu choose option “C” for MF-N’s function.

When I’m shooting birds, I will often (almost always?) mess up my C3 settings. Clicking the MF-N button three times takes a fraction of a second and restores my complicated birds-in-flight defaults. Brilliant!

My current defaults:

• C1 : exposure bracketing
• C2 : focus bracketing
• C3 : BIF

… David

 

[PKM-UK]

So very useful.

MF-N is the only button that can be programmed to cycle C1—>C2—>C3—>C1…

In the Customize Buttons menu choose option “C” for MF-N’s function.

When I’m shooting birds, I will often (almost always?) mess up my C3 settings. Clicking the MF-N button three times takes a fraction of a second and restores my complicated birds-in-flight defaults. Brilliant!

My current defaults:

• C1 : exposure bracketing
• C2 : focus bracketing
• C3 : BIF

… David

When I switch to Karen’s R7, this is the feature I miss the most.

(My R5’s options: Manual, C1 Animal eye-AF, C2 People eye-AF, C3 Waterfalls. Each with an alternative set-up via [AF-ON]).

Phil

 

[Only RF]

So very useful.

MF-N is the only button that can be programmed to cycle C1—>C2—>C3—>C1…

In the Customize Buttons menu choose option “C” for MF-N’s function.

When I’m shooting birds, I will often (almost always?) mess up my C3 settings. Clicking the MF-N button three times takes a fraction of a second and restores my complicated birds-in-flight defaults. Brilliant!

My current defaults:

• C1 : exposure bracketing
• C2 : focus bracketing
• C3 : BIF

… David

That is what I miss about R5. I could map C1-3 to that button. These days I have the MF-N button mapped for subject to detect on my R6II. Unfortunately my R7 does not offer that option. Can't figure that one out Canon? We need consistency. It's not so bad because I'm on animals 90% of the time with the R7.

 

[TwoWheeler]

So very useful.

I picked that up from someone on the wasteland that is Youtube - maybe Duade Paton.

MF-N is the only button that can be programmed to cycle C1—>C2—>C3—>C1…

Huh, didn’t know that. See? I must have picked that up from someone way smarterer than me.

Since I’m so schizophrenic about what I shoot, it’s hugely helpful to be able to quickly jump from one mode to another without having to remember to change a whole bunch of stuff. It’s also one of the things that pushed me away from Fuji - you can’t map physical switch settings to a custom function.