Canon R7 R7 AF issues - no sharp images

shamlin

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Steve Hamlin
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I have a nearly new R7 that I'm using with mostly older EF L-series lenses. I've been out with it twice photographing birds and haven't gotten a single usable image - a far cry from the tack-sharp images I expected after reading reviews and watching Youtube videos. The eye detect locks onto my subject and tracks it, giving the appearance that the focus is working exactly as it should, but on download, every image is soft. I ran rhe best of them through DxO PureRaw 3 and it was still very soft, so I ran that image through Topaz Sharp AI. It was still way too soft to be usable.

I have the current firmware and I have a bit of experience with Canon cameras and bird photography in the field - I've been using Canon gear to shoot wildlife since 2004. I called Canon service and spoke at length with a rep there who recommended I send it to the service center. Since I bought the camera used, I expected it would cost me at least a couple hundred dollars for the service. When I filled out the online form, I was pleasantly surprised that the estimate was $0. A couple of nights ago, I was reading reviews of the camera on the B&H website. Among them, I stumbled on a review from a buyer who described precisely the same problem. He sent his to the service center where it was repaired for free too. It fixed the problem for him. I just shipped my camera out yesterday. His experience gives me hope that my camera will return without a surprise bill and capable of delivering the sharp photos I expected.

From my conversation with Canon support, combined with the $0 estimate and the review on B&H, I get the impression my experience isn't unique. I don't think it's a widespread problem, but I wouldn't be surprised if it's more common than the few isolated cases I've been able to find evidence of, since Canon seems to be aware of it and to have a remedy worked out. According to the B&H review, the repair invoice was vague, stating "Your product has been examined and Electrical adjustments were performed." Whatever they did, it fixed the problem for him. I hope to have the same result.
 
To be honest, I have been looking around whether ISO has any impact of AF and I have found people saying that it does and people saying that it does not. The fact is that a if you are forced to use a higher ISO is because you are shooting in a dark environment where contrast is poor and that really affect ISO. The R7 uses a crop sensor and crop sensors do not perform well in poor light conditions. No surprises here. If you need to shoot in poor light then a full size sensor is recommended.
 
To be honest, I have been looking around whether ISO has any impact of AF and I have found people saying that it does and people saying that it does not. The fact is that a if you are forced to use a higher ISO is because you are shooting in a dark environment where contrast is poor and that really affect ISO. The R7 uses a crop sensor and crop sensors do not perform well in poor light conditions. No surprises here. If you need to shoot in poor light then a full size sensor is recommended.
If you need high ISO then poor lighting can be a factor. Reminds me of my 7D2. I rare I used it low light. I would use my 5D4 for that. I used it call my 7D2 sensor light hungry. Same goes for the R7 I suppose.

Every tool has its job. The R7 works best in good light.

As we search for the answers there is not much we can do. We have no control over AF sensitivity. It either sees contrast or it doesn’t. We have some control over tracking characteristics with the case numbers and switching tracked subjects. Good technique and appropriate shutter speeds gets you further I think but that is just me.
 
To be honest, I have been looking around whether ISO has any impact of AF and I have found people saying that it does and people saying that it does not. The fact is that a if you are forced to use a higher ISO is because you are shooting in a dark environment where contrast is poor and that really affect ISO. The R7 uses a crop sensor and crop sensors do not perform well in poor light conditions. No surprises here. If you need to shoot in poor light then a full size sensor is recommended.
I have previously tried that and not noticed any difference. All of this is true of course and is not the case in point because it applies to all cameras to a greater or lesser extent. A few of the cameras with higher scores in the objective BIF tests in good light were crop sensors but more were FF especially the Canon ones. I came from a crop sensor Nikon (D500) to this and my friend from a 7Dmk2 and we both think the AF is less reliable with the R7 in difficult and regular tracking circumstances than these cameras, for example were. That is our opinion and if you are happy with things as they are then that is absolutely fine and I am happy with the camera as it is for now. There is little point in any further discussion as we know what we think and others can make their own judgement dependent on their requirements.
 
I have previously tried that and not noticed any difference. All of this is true of course and is not the case in point because it applies to all cameras to a greater or lesser extent. A few of the cameras with higher scores in the objective BIF tests in good light were crop sensors but more were FF especially the Canon ones. I came from a crop sensor Nikon (D500) to this and my friend from a 7Dmk2 and we both think the AF is less reliable with the R7 in difficult and regular tracking circumstances than these cameras, for example were. That is our opinion and if you are happy with things as they are then that is absolutely fine and I am happy with the camera as it is for now. There is little point in any further discussion as we know what we think and others can make their own judgement dependent on their requirements.
More difficulty tracking when the R7 is in tracking and eye/face mode or using the traditional AF system? For example single point AF, Zone AF or whatever you used with the D500 or 7D2. If comparing using the new eye detect AF to DSLR focusing then it's not apples to apples.

If you are comparing the R7 using traditional AF then perhaps. I've never tested it. I'm in eye focus pretty much all of the time. Eye detect is pretty new tech and will only improve. Pretty amazing where they are today and in a pretty short time.
 
More difficulty tracking when the R7 is in tracking and eye/face mode or using the traditional AF system? For example single point AF, Zone AF or whatever you used with the D500 or 7D2. If comparing using the new eye detect AF to DSLR focusing then it's not apples to apples.

If you are comparing the R7 using traditional AF then perhaps. I've never tested it. I'm in eye focus pretty much all of the time. Eye detect is pretty new tech and will only improve. Pretty amazing where they are today and in a pretty short time.
Yes, I find it amazing at times and is good for small birds in branches I find. The times I find it poor are when you expect it to be - like trying to pick out an owl from a grassy background from 25m or more. Then the traditional method is inferior to D500 in terms of consistency especially.
 
I have set the * button to AF using single point without eye detection and tracking. This way I can just push and hold the button to focus in a specific point on the subject. Very helpful when you need to focus in a bird hidden behind branches.
 
Yes, I find it amazing at times and is good for small birds in branches I find. The times I find it poor are when you expect it to be - like trying to pick out an owl from a grassy background from 25m or more. Then the traditional method is inferior to D500 in terms of consistency especially.
I see. Like Frank said that is where I would use my Eye Detect override. I left AF and metering on the shutter button. Currently the AF-ON is set to Zone AF with no eye detect. I just toggle it as many times as I need to and when the body gets into focus the system usually finds the eye. Again all depends on how good the eye contrast is.

As all camera manufacturers continue to train their AI algorithms the more complex scenes will be easier to work with. We are just on the cusp of these amassing times.
 
Well, like anything AI, sometimes are more A than I. If you know what I mean. You could use A+ and let the camera decide everything or you can go Manual and take control. Eye AF is not perfect. AF is not perfect. Sometimes is better to go to the basic and elemental one focus point and place it where you want. I find that this method is sometimes more reliable.

Yesterday I accidentally disabled Animal Detection, I turned off the whole detection feature, that turns off the Eye Detection as well. I took pictures of some birds in my feeder. Guess what, I worked.


The bird was perfectly in focus. I got a box around the bird when I was focusing and I was wondering why it could not detect the eye to later find that I had the whole detection feature OFF.
 
Sure. I'm aware of the shutter shock issue. I've experimented with both mechanical and first-curtain electronic. On one of the two tries with the R7, I had the shutter speed set at 200. On the second, thinking the slow shutter speed might have been the problem, I made sure to use nothing slower than 1/1000. I'm attaching the photo from that day that is probably the best. The issue seems to be much more noticeable with distant subjects. I took some photos in my backyard using my 100-400 IS II which were reasonably sharp, although still not nearly as sharp as I had expected. the subjects in those were around 20' from me, as opposed to the 35 yds or so with the Green-winged Teal in the photo below. That was shot using my 500mm f4 L IS with my 1.4x III extender.
Your backyard photographs look tack sharp to me.
 
If need to use the traditional method I will but I always use eye detect first. I paid for it so I make it work for me.

If it can’t find the eye it finds the head. When it can’t fins the head it finds the body and goes back to the previous two. I’m OK with that.
 

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