Birds Which Telephoto Zoom?

Like David, I have much to learn. What is H and H+?
 
Thanks: I have much to learn!
… David
NP. One reason I never liked it was I never trusted my own results. That is why I purchased FoCal. The second was while it was a very good feature Canon never really provided a decent set of instructions. It was all over the place. Some Canon articles said for distance to use 50X the lens and others the distance your normally shoot at or at location. Then the questions of the actual procedure came up and a flood of ideas appeared on the web. Many suggested to print out a ruler or use one and do this at a 45 degree angle. That turned out not to be the recommended method. When adjusting MFA your target should be parallel to the cameras sensor. Lens Align started with a ruler only then added a parallel target to focus on. The ruler was the reference to tell you if the camera was front or back focusing.

Very early on in one article Chuck Westfall suggested some methods and said if you can better go ahead. I thought what? I spend thousands on precision camera gear. Your engineers should be telling me how to do this properly.

Finally Canon came up with a comprehensive set of instructions. Before I found this I was using Focal. Since I shot outdoors with my telephoto lenses and based on articles I tried to use as much natural daylight as I could. I also lit the target with two daylight balanced studio CFL's. When I used to post the part about the CFL's I had a feeling people thought I was off my rocker a bit. Page 5 shows the procedure and step 1 is the light source.

https://support.usa.canon.com/resou...T175504/en_US/AF_MicroAdjustGuide_desktop.pdf

Sorry for my rant. MFA has always been a bit of a pet peeve for me. I probably invested more time into it than I needed to but I like to ask questions and understand why I'm doing something. Either way I will never miss it.
 
NP. One reason I never liked it was I never trusted my own results. That is why I purchased FoCal. The second was while it was a very good feature Canon never really provided a decent set of instructions. It was all over the place. Some Canon articles said for distance to use 50X the lens and others the distance your normally shoot at or at location. Then the questions of the actual procedure came up and a flood of ideas appeared on the web. Many suggested to print out a ruler or use one and do this at a 45 degree angle. That turned out not to be the recommended method. When adjusting MFA your target should be parallel to the cameras sensor. Lens Align started with a ruler only then added a parallel target to focus on. The ruler was the reference to tell you if the camera was front or back focusing.

Very early on in one article Chuck Westfall suggested some methods and said if you can better go ahead. I thought what? I spend thousands on precision camera gear. Your engineers should be telling me how to do this properly.

Finally Canon came up with a comprehensive set of instructions. Before I found this I was using Focal. Since I shot outdoors with my telephoto lenses and based on articles I tried to use as much natural daylight as I could. I also lit the target with two daylight balanced studio CFL's. When I used to post the part about the CFL's I had a feeling people thought I was off my rocker a bit. Page 5 shows the procedure and step 1 is the light source.

https://support.usa.canon.com/resou...T175504/en_US/AF_MicroAdjustGuide_desktop.pdf

Sorry for my rant. MFA has always been a bit of a pet peeve for me. I probably invested more time into it than I needed to but I like to ask questions and understand why I'm doing something. Either way I will never miss it.
Just to add my first camera with MFA was the 50D. Released in 2008 and when my MFA madness started. 😬 :)
 
H = high speed continuous or frame rate. For example in e shutter the R7 with H+ will do 30 fps. With H it will do 15 fps.
Thanks!
 
Just for the record, MFA only applies to DSLR. Mirrorless cameras (R) do not use or require MFA.
 

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